How I Capture the Northern Lights (2025 Update)
- Dre Erwin
- Dec 13, 2025
- 4 min read
Updated: Dec 13, 2025
If you follow my page and have ever wondered how I capture my images and edit them, this is where you can find out exactly how I do it.
It's not difficult, nor does it take a lot of time—especially with the amazing technology we have available today!
The Gear: Mirrorless Revolution
Since I first wrote this in 2018, the camera world has shifted from DSLRs to Mirrorless systems. While I loved my old Nikon D800, the new tech handles low light incredibly well.
Camera: I have moved from the DSLR world to modern mirrorless bodies. Currently, I recommend cameras like the Nikon Z8 or Nikon Z6 III. The "Star View" mode on these newer cameras makes focusing in the dark so much easier than the old "guess and check" method.
Lens: Fast, wide glass is still king. While I used to love my Tamron 15-30mm, I now lean toward native mirrorless lenses like the Nikon Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S or the incredible Sigma 14mm f/1.4 DG DN Art. That f/1.4 aperture lets in significantly more light, allowing for shorter exposures and sharper stars.
Tripod: A sturdy tripod is non-negotiable. I still swear by my Manfrotto legs—best piece of equipment I own. If your camera moves, your stars blur.
Memory Card: With larger file sizes, speed matters. I use CFexpress Type B cards or fast UHS-II SD cards now. They are essential if you plan to shoot timelapses without your camera "choking" on the data buffer.
Before You Go: Tracking the Lights
Back in the day, we just looked out the window. Now, with Solar Cycle 25 peaking in 2024/2025, activity is high, and apps make it easier to predict.
SpaceWeatherLive: For the serious data nerd. Real-time solar wind data.
My Aurora Forecast & Alerts: Great for quick "Is it happening?" checks.
Glendale App: Extremely accurate, user-based reports which are fantastic for knowing exactly when the "substorm" is hitting.
The Shoot: Settings & Technique
Having a fire, sipping Tim Horton's, and watching the fire in the sky - Pinehouse Lake
1. Setup: I turn off all automatic functions on the lens and camera: Autofocus OFF, Noise Reduction OFF, Image Stabilization (VR/IBIS) OFF.
2. Focusing: This is the hardest part. I switch to manual focus and use "Live View" (or the electronic viewfinder) to zoom in digitally on a bright star. On modern mirrorless cameras, you can often use "Focus Peaking" (where the stars turn red or white when sharp) to nail this instantly.
3. The Exposure Triangle: I shoot in Manual Mode.
Aperture: Always wide open (f/2.8 or f/1.4 if you have it).
ISO: This has changed! With modern AI software (see below), I am comfortable shooting at ISO 3200 or even 6400.
Shutter Speed: I try to keep this between 5 to 8 seconds.
Why faster? In 2018, I shot 15-second exposures. Today, I prefer shorter exposures (under 10 seconds) to keep the "pillars" of the aurora sharp and defined, rather than blurry curtains. Higher ISO allows for this speed.
One of the secrets is to not underexpose. I would personally have a picture a tad brighter than too dark; we can always darken it later, but brightening a black photo introduces noise.
Post-Processing: The AI Revolution
This is where everything has changed since 2018.
I used to spend hours fiddling with "Luminance" sliders to hide grain. Now, Lightroom's AI Denoise does the work for me.
My New Workflow:
Import to Lightroom.
Lens Corrections: Check "Remove Chromatic Aberration" and "Enable Profile Corrections".
AI Denoise: This is the magic button. In the "Detail" panel, click Denoise. It uses AI to analyze the image, removing the grain (noise) while keeping the stars sharp. It creates a new "Enhanced" DNG file that is incredibly clean.
Basic Edits: Since the file is now clean, I can boost the Shadows and Whites to make the aurora pop without worrying about grain.
Masking: Instead of my old "Windows editor" trick, I use Lightroom's "Select Sky" mask. It automatically selects just the sky, letting me darken it slightly to make the stars shine brighter, without affecting the foreground trees.
Mobile Photography in 2025
You don't need a $3,000 camera anymore. Modern phones have dedicated Astrophotography Modes.
Google Pixel (9 Pro): Put it on a tripod/rock. It detects it's stable and enters "Astrophotography Mode," taking a 4-minute exposure that removes moving objects and stacks the light for a DSLR-quality shot.
Samsung Galaxy (S25 Ultra): Download the "Expert RAW" app and use the "Astro" feature. It even includes a star map overlay so you know what you are shooting.
iPhone (16 Pro): Use "Night Mode." If on a tripod, the phone will automatically extend the exposure to 30 seconds.
Tip: Even with a phone, use a tripod. You cannot hold your hand still for 30 seconds!
Final Thoughts
I hope this helps! The technology has changed, but the feeling of watching the lights dance over the boreal forest hasn't. All the knowledge to do aurora borealis photography is at your fingertips.
Practice, practice, practice!
Additional Resources
Solar Cycle Status:(https://www.swpc.noaa.gov/)
Real-time Data:(https://www.spaceweatherlive.com/)
My Aurora Galleries:(https://www.dreerwinphoto.com/aurora-borealis)
Advanced Gear Guide: Capture the Atlas 2025 Guide
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