How I Capture the Northern Lights (2026 Update)

Dre Erwin
4 days ago
5 min read

World-renowned as one of nature’s most incredible wonders, the shimmering lights of the aurora are the result of collisions between electrically charged particles. Gaseous particles in the Earth’s atmosphere collide with charged particles released from the sun’s atmosphere. The Northern Lights appear in many colours including red, yellow, green, blue and violet, and can appear in many forms including patches or scattered clouds, streamers, arcs, rippling curtains or shooting rays, lighting up the sky. Different altitudes and types of gas particles that collide cause the variations in colour. The most common auroral colour is a pale yellowish-green. This display is caused by oxygen molecules located approximately 96 km (60 miles) above the earth. Blue or purple-red auroras are created by nitrogen, and though rare, all-red auroras are produced by oxygen at a high altitude, at heights of up to 321 km (200 miles). — The Northern Lights in Pinehouse Lake Saskatchewan

If you follow my page and have ever wondered how I capture my images and edit them, this is where you can find out exactly how I do it.

It's not difficult, nor does it take a lot of time—especially with the amazing technology we have available today!

**How I Capture the Northern Lights (2025 Update)**

The Gear: Mirrorless Revolution (And Yes, Phones)

Since I first wrote this in 2018, the camera world has shifted from DSLRs to Mirrorless systems. While I loved my old Nikon D800, the new tech handles low light incredibly well.

Camera: I have moved from the DSLR world to modern mirrorless bodies. Currently, I recommend cameras like the Nikon Z8 or Nikon Z6 III. The "Star View" mode on these newer cameras makes focusing in the dark so much easier than the old "guess and check" method.

Phones: Let’s address the elephant in the room. The computational astrophotography on the Google Pixel 10 is terrifyingly good. No, it’s not replacing my Nikon for massive prints, but for a quick "is this worth freezing my hands off" test? It's phenomenal.

Lens: Fast, wide glass is still king. While I used to love my Tamron 15-30mm, I now lean toward native mirrorless lenses like the Nikon Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S or the incredible Sigma 14mm f/1.4 DG DN Art. That f/1.4 aperture lets in significantly more light, allowing for shorter exposures and sharper stars.

Tripod: A sturdy tripod is non-negotiable. I still swear by my Manfrotto legs—best piece of equipment I own. If your camera moves, your stars blur. And before you ask: no, you cannot hover your DJI Avata or Neo to get a steady 5-second exposure. Keep it on the ground.

Memory Card: With larger file sizes, speed matters. I use CFexpress Type B cards or fast UHS-II SD cards now. They are essential if you plan to shoot timelapses without your camera choking on the data buffer like it just swallowed a dry Timbit.

Before You Go: Tracking the Northern Lights in 2026

Back in the day, we just looked out the window. Now, with Solar Cycle 25 past its 2024/2025 peak, you might think the party is over. It’s not. 2026 is in the declining phase, which actually means turbulent space weather that can push massive substorms even further south. Activity is still incredibly high.

AuroraMe (New for 2026!): Finally, an app that stops throwing raw Kp numbers at you and actually factors in cloud cover, moon phase, and darkness to give a simple "Yes, go outside now" verdict.
SpaceWeatherLive: For the serious data nerd. Real-time solar wind data.
My Aurora Forecast & Alerts: Great for quick "Is it happening?" checks.
Glendale App: Extremely accurate, user-based reports which are fantastic for knowing exactly when the "substorm" is hitting.

The Shoot: Settings & Technique

Having a fire, sipping Tim Horton's, and watching the fire in the sky—soon to be my nightly routine again once I'm back up in Sandy Bay this June.

1. Setup: I turn off all automatic functions on the lens and camera: Autofocus OFF, Noise Reduction OFF, Image Stabilization (VR/IBIS) OFF.

2. Focusing: This used to be the hardest part. I switch to manual focus and use "Live View" (or the electronic viewfinder) to zoom in digitally on a bright star. On modern mirrorless cameras, you can often use "Focus Peaking" (where the stars turn red or white when sharp) to nail this instantly.

3. The Exposure Triangle: I shoot in Manual Mode. Period.

Aperture: Always wide open (f/2.8 or f/1.4 if you have it).
ISO: This has changed drastically! With Lightroom's modern AI denoise doing the heavy lifting in post, I am completely comfortable shooting at ISO 3200, 6400, or even higher. It feels like cheating, but I’ll take it.
Shutter Speed: I try to keep this between 5 to 8 seconds.

Why faster? In 2018, I shot 15-second exposures. Today, I prefer shorter exposures (under 10 seconds) to keep the "pillars" of the aurora sharp and defined, rather than blurry, washed-out curtains. That higher ISO is what allows for this speed.

One of the secrets is to not underexpose. I would personally rather have a picture a tad brighter than too dark; we can always darken it later, but brightening a pitch-black photo introduces a ridiculous amount of noise.

The legendary Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) is one of the most beautiful and spectacular natural phenomena in the world, visible in the higher latitudes of the Northern hemisphere. That means one of the best places to see the Northern Lights is in Canada. Viewing this natural light show is easier than you’d think! From August to May, the Northern Lights bejewel the night sky in the Canadian Arctic, against a backdrop of incredible scenery and possible rare wildlife sightings. — WAYS TO SEE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS IN THE CANADIAN NORTH

Post-Processing: The AI Revolution

This is where everything has changed since 2018.

I used to spend hours fiddling with "Luminance" sliders to hide grain. Now, Lightroom's AI Denoise does the work for me.

Back in the day, I used to spend hours nudging "Luminance" sliders up and down, trying to find that magical (and mostly fictional) middle ground between "crunchy grain" and "smudged watercolor painting." Now? I just let the robots handle it.

My 2026 Workflow:

Import to Lightroom: Obviously.
Lens Corrections: Check "Remove Chromatic Aberration" and "Enable Profile Corrections." Do this every time.
AI Denoise (The Magic Button): In the "Detail" panel, click Denoise. The AI analyzes the image, nukes the noise, and keeps the stars tack-sharp. Big update for 2026: You no longer have to deal with Lightroom spitting out massive, separate "Enhanced" DNG files. It’s now completely non-destructive, meaning you can toggle the strength on and off without instantly filling up your hard drive. It is an absolute lifesaver.
Basic Edits: Because the file is now immaculately clean, I can recklessly boost the Shadows and Whites to make the aurora pop without worrying about introducing grain.
Masking: Remember my old, convoluted "Windows editor" trick? Yeah, forget that. I now use Lightroom’s AI "Select Sky" mask. It takes half a second to automatically isolate the sky, letting me darken the background slightly so the stars punch through, without turning my foreground trees into completely black silhouettes.

6 WAYS TO SEE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS IN THE CANADIAN NORTH — Having afire, sipping Tim Horton's and watching the fire by the fire in the sky - Pinehouse Lake

Mobile Photography in 2026

Samsung Galaxy S26 Ultra: Download Samsung's "Expert RAW" app and use the dedicated "Astro" feature. It even includes a built-in star map overlay right on the screen, so you actually know what constellation you are pointing at in the dark.
iPhone 17 Pro: Use Apple's "Night Mode." If you try holding it, you'll get 3 to 10 seconds max. But if the phone detects it is locked down on a tripod, it will automatically allow you to extend the exposure out to a full 30 seconds.

Crucial Tip: Even with all the AI magic in a modern phone, use a tripod. You cannot hold your hand still for 30 seconds, let alone 4 minutes. Just buy a cheap phone mount for your Manfrotto.

Final Thoughts

I hope this helps! The camera technology, the AI software, and the tracking apps have changed drastically since I first started shooting, but the actual feeling of standing in the freezing dark and watching the lights dance over the boreal forest hasn't changed one bit.

All the knowledge you need to start shooting the aurora borealis is right at your fingertips. Now you just need to get out there, freeze your fingers a little, and practice, practice, practice!

Additional Resources for 2026:

Solar Cycle Status: NOAA Space Weather Prediction Center
Real-time Data: SpaceWeatherLive
My Aurora Galleries: dreerwinphoto.com/aurora-borealis
Advanced Deep Dive: Capture the Atlas 2026 Aurora Guide

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